I want to be a Scandinavian hipster when I grow up. But Aaron, you might say, you’re already grown up. You can’t pull off a baggy sweater! Big headphones make your head look weird! You’ll never be able to grow a real beard. Don’t you have that weird fear of bicycles? I will respond by putting on a pair of tiny round sunglasses and walk (not bike) to my nearest craft brewery.
Norway may be known for its fjords and hiking. But, Oslo is having its own moment and it’s a great time to experience Norway’s urban side. Last week I had the chance to enjoy a long weekend in Norway. If I didn’t have time to hike to a fjord, I was going to live my best life as a Viking hipster.
Oslo’s neighborhoods are changing. Yesterday’s working class areas are today’s most coveted post codes. One of the best examples of this is Grünerløkka. Once a traditional working class district with several factories, it’s now the center of Norwegian hipsterdom. If you’re looking for unique shops, great restaurants, and cool bars, this is the place to be.
Grünerløkka’s activity is centered around Olaf Ryes Plass, a pretty, green square surrounded by restaurants and bars that’s always buzzing with life. From there it’s an easy walk to all of the area’s best shopping and eating.
For my first breakfast I stopped by Liebling, one of the best brunch spots in the area. It’s fairly cheap for Oslo and has a great selection of homemade baked goods and sandwiches on delicious Norwegian bread. They also have great vegetarian options and smoothie bowls. Pair that with one of their wide selection of coffee/tea or a mimosa if it’s that kind of day. There’s also free Wi-Fi and a chill vibe to sit and work. My personal favorite at this café (or any in Norway for that matter) is the Kanelboller, Norway’s take on the cinnamon roll. I ate one at every place I could find them…for research.
Now a couple of sizes bigger (Thanks cinnamon rolls!) it was time to shop. If anyone is ever going to take me seriously as a hipster of the north I need to dress the part. Grünerløkka’s shopping streets are a great place to pick up clothes with Scandinavian design’s signature clean lines and simple pieces. Shopping in the neighborhood is centered along two main streets: Thorvald Meyers Gate and Markveien.
Thorvald Meyers Gate is packed with options, but there are a couple of can’t miss stops. COS is a popular Swedish brand owned by H&M group selling the latest in Scandinavian fashion with a modern edge. Next door, is Weekday, serving Scandinavian designs with a hipster side at affordable prices. This area is also full of vintage and second hand stores. Velouria Vintage, further up the road, is a great place to start.
The neighborhood’s second smaller shopping street, Markveien, has a few well curated local boutiques. Dapper has the latest in men’s grooming products and streetwear that can feel a little more Brooklyn than Scandinavia. The Chill Out Travel Store is a great locally owned shop for luggage, travel gadgets, and gifts for travelers. They also have a great selection of English travel books to read up on your next destination.
After shopping up an appetite, the next stop was Mathallen for lunch, one of Oslo’s biggest and best food halls. Under one roof you can find restaurants, bars, cafes, and grocery stands with a focus on high quality Norwegian ingredients. Try some of Norway’s famous seafood at Vulkanfisk Seafoodbar and pick up some Norwegian brown cheese at Gutta På Haugen to snack on later.
Oslo has its share of party spots, but I was looking for a more quiet way to wrap up the night. Oslo Velo is a popular hangout with Grünerløkka’s locals. It’s a café, bar, and bicycle repair shop all in one. It’s the perfect place to grab a coffee or beer with friends and wind down.
The next morning, while searching for breakfast spots, I learned that Oslo’s best bakery was right around the corner. Godt Brød is a Grünerløkka institution. Its name means “Good Bread” in Norwegian and its famous for serving just that. Every day their magical elves (I assume) make fresh bread and pastries with all organic ingredients. They also have a nice build your own salad bar, which is great if you’re the kind of psychopath that eats a salad in a bakery. For once in my life I was motivated to get up early and check it out. I, of course, ordered their version of a Kanelboller (How do I know which one is best if I don’t try them all?) and it might just be the current frontrunner!
Though I was in no hurry to leave, I managed to venture out of the neighborhood for part of the day to check out some of the city’s other sites. Oslo is very compact and easy to get around so I took the scenic route home (Calling it home makes me seem like I’m meant to be here right??). I made my way back slowly along the Akerselva River. An 8km walkway winds along the river with parks, art, and even a waterfall in the middle of the city!
The river walk has more than natural attractions. There is also a great cluster of bars around the Ingens Gate bridge. Ingensteds is a bar turned club/music venue as the night goes on. Blå is a music venue overlooking the river, that hosts an art market on Sunday afternoons.
For accommodation, Grünerløkka is lacking a little when it comes to affordable hotels. But there is a wide range of Airbnb’s in the area. What better way to learn how to be a Norwegian hipster than by staying in one of their places for a bit? I was able to find the perfect hipster pad, record player and all, within walking distance of all the action.
With my suitcases a little heavier from the shopping and me a little heavier from the frantic cinnamon bun eating, it was time to leave. I only scratched the surface of this buzzing corner of Oslo and I’m already planning my next trip back.