Browsing Category

Travel

10 Things to Do in Bali…When Sick with a Mosquito Borne Virus

Posted on March 25, 2020

Tegalalang Rice Paddy — It’s easy to see why one might think they’re hallucinating in Bali

So, in your last days of a Bornean jungle cruise, the local mosquitos decided to give you a parting gift. Maybe a viral infection that comes with a high fever, pain, and crazy fits of coughing that feel like they will never end? Yeah me too. Are you wandering the steamy streets of this beautiful island not sure of what’s a hallucination and what is just everyday life in this magical place? Been there.

This was reality for my friends and I as we arrived in Ubud last year. Struck with one of those weird sicknesses only the jungle can provide, the easy, touristy Bali leg of our trip, became one of doctors and figuring out which attractions we could still attempt to crawl to. After a few more chest X-Rays than I normally like to get while on vacation, I’ve made my ultimate list of things to do in Bali…..while sick with a mosquito borne illness.

Oh. So, you’re in Bali, healthy, and enjoying yourself? Weird but ok. I guess you could still do most of these things too.

1. Mask Pics

Aaron and Laura wear masks on the plane — Not Quite the Bali look we had in mind

Your loud, obnoxious coughing fit will inevitably be met by friendly Balinese people gently offering you medical masks as a subtle hint to please not spread your gross plague all over their beautiful island. Attempt to Google translate how to say “I got this from a mosquito” in Balinese. Give up on that. Smile and say thank you. Put on the mask. Learn to use it properly. Take lots of selfies. Smize. Surely, we won’t be wearing these for long….right?

2. Use the Hotel Shuttle as Your Personal Ambulance

laura at BIMC clinic ubud bali indonesia — It’s kind of like going back for a spa treatment…if your treatment is a chest x-ray

We stayed at the Sapodilla Ubud, which offers an awesome free shuttle service to all of the city’s main attractions and restaurants. Direct from the lobby, a friendly driver will take you wherever you want to go. They’ll even give you a little cell phone you can use to call him to come back and pick you up.

Wonder if the BIMC Balinese clinic counts as an attraction. It does? Great. The shuttle is now your personal ambulance. Enjoy the top notch medical care from the staff at the clinic. Dial the cell phone to get picked up by the driver. Start another coughing fit before you can start talking. He knows who it is. He’s on his way.

3 . Go to the Pool!

Aaron in Bali swimming pool — Relaxing or Dying? Who can say for sure?

You know how some people try to break a fever in a bath? This is Bali! Use the pool! Thankfully, the Sapodilla has a beautiful pool in a serene garden that’s in crawling distance from your room. Relax in the pool until your fever hallucinations stop. Attempt to swim a lap. Prop yourself up in a poolside chaise lounge. Put on sunglasses and have someone snap a pic. Are you chilling or a going back into a virus induced hibernation? Your Instagram followers will never know the difference.

4. Experience (or be Traumatized in) Ubud’s Monkey Forest

ubud bali money forest — Monkeys resting after a busy day of attacking tourists

Imagine a wildlife park mixed with a den of thieves and you’ll have an idea of what you’re in for. The Monkey Forest is a peaceful jungle oasis right in the middle of bustling Ubud…an oasis filled with screaming monkeys. The temples are beautiful. The birds are singing. The monkeys are ready to attack you at any moment. The stars of the show here are hundreds of adorable Balinese Long Tailed Monkeys who make their living off of the unprepared tourists that visit every day.

Think that snack you brought in is for you? Not for long. You’d prefer to keep those shiny sunglasses? Too bad.

Obey the warning signs scattered around the park: No sudden movements, no eye contact with monkeys, no loud noises. Wonder to yourself: does a cough count as a loud noise? Realize it probably does. Feel a coughing attack coming on. Oh god. Don’t cough. Don’t cough. Get close to a monkey to take a picture. Cough. Run away as the monkey comes screaming out you with its fangs out.

5. Eat Bali’s Famous Roast Pig

Ibu Oka is a Babi Guling, or Balinese roast pork, restaurant that has become a foodie pilgrimage site. Every day whole pigs are stuffed with spices, basted with coconut milk, and roasted over an open flame for hours. The result is delicious, juicy pork with crispy skin. Even Anthony Bourdain said it was some of the best pork he’d ever had. It has become a little touristy since then, but it’s still worth a visit.

Would Anthony Bourdain let a mystery virus stop him? No. In your never-ending quest to quest to be more like him, order a full plate. Is that enough? Order extra skin just in case. Take your mask off and eat all of it. Realize this is probably better medicine than whatever the doctor gave you.

6. Attempt to Heal Yourself with Bali’s Yoga Scene

The Yoga Barn is Ubud’s biggest and most famous yoga center. A small staircase opens up into an Zen oasis of all things yoga. There are thatch roofed shalas teaching 20+ classes per day, a vegan café, and a shop all the hippy gear you could ever want. It’s more like its own village than just a yoga school.

Before getting sick, make a goal to take one class a day while in Bali. Get sick. Discover you can’t climb stairs without coughing let alone do a one hour yoga class. Change that goal to visit even one time. Limp down the stairs to the courtyard and realize you’re in the thunderdome of yoga. Start another loud coughing fit as a white girl with dreadlocks begins playing the didgeridoo, drowning out the sound. Namaste, etc.

7. Become Friends with the Neighbors

Spend all day in your beautiful room at the Sapodilla Ubud where at least you’re bedridden with a view. There’s nothing like sweating out a fever in a resort bed. Notice a small house gecko crawling across the ceiling. This is the most exciting thing to happen in hours. Watch as he stops directly above you and stares back at you. Is he making eye contact? Decide you’ll win this staring contest. Think you can maybe hear him whispering now. Is he really there at all? Take another pill for your fever.

8. Drink Like the Locals

bali jamu elixir drink — Bonus points if it has a paper straw

Jamu, or traditional Balinese herbal elixirs, are widely popular and available across the island. Most are made with fresh ginger, turmeric, and honey. Jamu was a superfood long before that was even a thing. They’re also naturally good for your immune system and a sore throat.

Order one at every meal. Order more. Pour it in a glass. It looks like a cocktail. Room service delivers them? You will survive.

9. Enjoy a Hipster Brunch: Bali Style

Bali’s influx of tourism, especially of the health and wellness variety, means that restaurants and cafes are everywhere serving something to cure whatever ails you. Milk and Madu is a restaurant that feels just enough like home to comfort you when you’re sick, but still has a local side to experience new flavors.

Milk and madu bali eggs brunch — All of the fancy breakfast skillets please

The fever broke last night. You are 100% sure that all of the geckos you saw in your room are real. Things are looking up. Celebrate with breakfast. Check out Milk and Madu. Stay healthy and eat a smoothie bowl or celebrate that you’re still alive with pancakes. Try not to cough on all of the wannabe influencers in there with you (or do).

10. Take One Final Sick Pic

aaron and laura sick at airport — We safely evaded quarantine….for now

Your full circle moment. Your one friend who never caught the plague (Damn you, Stuart) spots a quarantine sign and makes you take a picture. Groan but do it anyway. Secretly treasure this pic as part of one of your more memorable trips. Realize despite all of this, Bali still managed to make you fall in love with it. Plan a second (and hopefully healthier) trip back.

Travel

Vikings, Saunas, and Fjords: Two Days in Oslo

Posted on October 4, 2019

Oslo fjord opera house — Oslo’s super modern Opera House

By the time I was able to pull myself away from living my hipster dream life in Grünerløkka, my trip was coming to an end. I was left with two days in Oslo to see some of what the rest of the city has to offer. Thankfully, Oslo is very compact and manageable. Even if a place is “on the other side of town,” chances are, you can reach it in about 15 minutes by public transportation.

Oslo is convenient from the moment you land. From the airport the Flytoget Train goes to Oslo’s central station in 20 minutes for 196 NOK. From there, a good number of Oslo’s main sites are a short walk away. The rest, including Grünerløkka, is a quick tram or bus ride away.

Day 1

On the first day I hit the ground running. Conveniently, the station’s main exit leads right to Oslo Fjord. Of course Norway has to show off with a fjord in the middle of its capital. This buzzing waterfront area has some of the city’s best activities.

Oslo Opera House

The centerpiece of Oslo’s fjord is the opera house. The hyper modern building appears to come right out of the water. The roof is open to the public and they actually encourage people to walk up there to take in some of the city’s best views. Also, somehow, my fear of heights disappeared when I learned there is a café on the roof with delicious baked goods. The slanted marble roof even becomes epic stadium seating for special outdoor events.

Ekbergparken

From the central station I took tram 18/19 to Ekbergparken. This park is often overlooked while tourists head to the more famous Vigeland Park. But, they’re missing out. It’s outside of the city center which, since we’re talking Oslo distances here, is still only 15 minutes by tram.

The park has pieces by several renowned artists like Dali, Rodin, and some other famous people that I’m not cool enough to know about. Instead of displaying them in a stuffy museum, the sculptures are scattered around a beautiful forest with epic views. Following the trails feels like a hike in the Norwegian countryside. Best of all, it’s free!

Ekbergparken has a great on site café called Karlsborg Spiseforretning. This café looks like a mountain cottage on the outside with a sleek Scandinavian designed interior. It’s pretty much like going to visit the cool Scandinavian grandma you wish you had. It also has an epic view of the fjord and Downtown Oslo. Most importantly, its Kanelboller game is strong. This was one of the highlights of my quest to find Norway’s best cinnamon roll. I also tried smørrebrød, a traditional Scandinavian open faced sandwich. They’re mounded with smoked fish or beef and are a great way to fuel up for the hike ahead.

karlsborg spiseforretning cafe in ekbergparken Oslo

smorrebrod at Karlsborg Spiseforretning Cafe in Ekbergparken

Reading about the park, I knew to expect beautiful art and views, but it still had one surprise in store….BABY GOATS. If one was to get tired of looking at sculptures. (Not me obviously. How dare you?) They might just want to go ahead to the petting zoo. I fed baby goats and got screamed at by sheep, which is pretty much all I’ve ever wanted out of an art exhibit. There is an entrance fee to the petting zoo, but some of those fences in the back are just low enough to reach over and pet a goat without going through the main gate. (Not that I would ever do that).

SALT Sauna

SALT Oslo entrance — SALT is hard to miss when you’re exploring Oslo’s fjord

After the long hike, I headed back to down to the city center to see a more relaxing side of Norwegian culture: The Sauna. A short walk from the Opera House is SALT (Always spelled in all caps for drama I guess). SALT is a hub of activity along the fjord. They have food trucks, a cozy bar, rotating art exhibits, and the stars of the show: an awesome collection of saunas. They offer everything from small private sauna rentals to sauna sessions with DJ’s or lectures in the biggest sauna in Europe. I chose the standard entry. It included three hours at Árdna, a good size sauna with glass windows looking out at the fjord.

For the brave, there are a few barrels of FREEZING water to cool off between sauna sets. The locals insisted that I couldn’t say I’d experienced a Norwegian sauna without jumping into the shocking water. I couldn’t muster more than a quick dip. But it definitely cooled me off and let me stretch out the amount of time I could spend in the sauna. Shortly after my first jump in the cold barrels, a summer storm rolled in. The booming thunder and rain pounding on the roof of the sauna made for a pretty magical soundtrack. After the sauna, SALT’s cozy bar was a great place to wait out the rest of the storm.

Day 2

Viking Ship Museum

Day 2 was all about seeing Oslo’s history. The Viking Ship Museum is one of the best places in the world to see Viking history up close. The museum, along with a few others, sits on the Bygdøy Peninsula. It was the farthest I ventured outside of Oslo, yet it is still only a 25 minute bus ride from downtown on Bus #30. In that short time, the view outside goes from busy city to suburban houses to farms and countryside. Right in the middle of cute houses and cows in rolling green fields, is the museum dedicated to some of history’s most fearsome warriors.

Vikingshipshuset as the locals call it, has three “burial ships.” These were seafaring ships that the Vikings built for their famous raids. When a wealthy ship owner died, they were buried with all their belongings inside the ship . The ships were all discovered accidentally by farmers digging in the countryside and they’re in amazing condition. You can still see the delicate carvings even though they were in the ground for over a thousand years. The museum does a great job of presenting the right amount of info to stave off museum fatigue. I felt like I had seen it all in a little more than an hour. The ticket also includes free admission to the nearby Historical Museum.

Downtown Shopping

shopping at karl johan's gate oslo — Shopping on Karl Johan’s Gate in Oslo

Leaving the museum, as the bus reached the city, I hopped off in one of Oslo’s best shopping areas. The area around Karl Johan’s Gate is full of stores selling classic Scandinavian design. This is where Norway’s expensive reputation comes in to play, but it was worth it to pick up a few unique things. Kaibosh is famous for its unique sunglasses. There was excellent department store shopping at Paleet, Eger, and Steen and Strøm. Some higher end stores include Filippa K and Samsøe Samsøe.

I didn’t know much about Oslo before I arrived. But after a few days surrounded by great scenery, interesting sites, and friendly locals, it’s become one of my favorite cities in Europe.

Do you have more than two days in Oslo? Check out my guide to Grünerløkka: Oslo’s hipster paradise!

Travel

Pretending to be a Scandinavian Hipster in Grünerløkka, Oslo’s Coolest Neighborhood

Posted on August 31, 2019

street art in grunerlokka oslo hipster neighborhood — Street Art in Grünerløkka

I want to be a Scandinavian hipster when I grow up. But Aaron, you might say, you’re already grown up. You can’t pull off a baggy sweater! Big headphones make your head look weird! You’ll never be able to grow a real beard. Don’t you have that weird fear of bicycles? I will respond by putting on a pair of tiny round sunglasses and walk (not bike) to my nearest craft brewery.

Norway may be known for its fjords and hiking. But, Oslo is having its own moment and it’s a great time to experience Norway’s urban side. Last week I had the chance to enjoy a long weekend in Norway. If I didn’t have time to hike to a fjord, I was going to live my best life as a Viking hipster.

Oslo’s neighborhoods are changing. Yesterday’s working class areas are today’s most coveted post codes. One of the best examples of this is Grünerløkka. Once a traditional working class district with several factories, it’s now the center of Norwegian hipsterdom. If you’re looking for unique shops, great restaurants, and cool bars, this is the place to be.

Grünerløkka’s activity is centered around Olaf Ryes Plass, a pretty, green square surrounded by restaurants and bars that’s always buzzing with life. From there it’s an easy walk to all of the area’s best shopping and eating.

Liebling cafe grunerlokka oslo hipster neighborhood — Actual Oslo hipsters in their natural habitat (Be my friend!)

A balanced breakfast should always be 2/3 baked goods

For my first breakfast I stopped by Liebling, one of the best brunch spots in the area. It’s fairly cheap for Oslo and has a great selection of homemade baked goods and sandwiches on delicious Norwegian bread. They also have great vegetarian options and smoothie bowls. Pair that with one of their wide selection of coffee/tea or a mimosa if it’s that kind of day. There’s also free Wi-Fi and a chill vibe to sit and work. My personal favorite at this café (or any in Norway for that matter) is the Kanelboller, Norway’s take on the cinnamon roll. I ate one at every place I could find them…for research.

Now a couple of sizes bigger (Thanks cinnamon rolls!) it was time to shop. If anyone is ever going to take me seriously as a hipster of the north I need to dress the part. Grünerløkka’s shopping streets are a great place to pick up clothes with Scandinavian design’s signature clean lines and simple pieces. Shopping in the neighborhood is centered along two main streets: Thorvald Meyers Gate and Markveien.

Thorvald Meyers Gate is packed with options, but there are a couple of can’t miss stops. COS is a popular Swedish brand owned by H&M group selling the latest in Scandinavian fashion with a modern edge. Next door, is Weekday, serving Scandinavian designs with a hipster side at affordable prices. This area is also full of vintage and second hand stores. Velouria Vintage, further up the road, is a great place to start.

colorful buildings in grunerlokka oslo hipster neighborhood — Even the buidlings in Grünerløkka are cool

The neighborhood’s second smaller shopping street, Markveien, has a few well curated local boutiques. Dapper has the latest in men’s grooming products and streetwear that can feel a little more Brooklyn than Scandinavia. The Chill Out Travel Store is a great locally owned shop for luggage, travel gadgets, and gifts for travelers. They also have a great selection of English travel books to read up on your next destination.

After shopping up an appetite, the next stop was Mathallen for lunch, one of Oslo’s biggest and best food halls. Under one roof you can find restaurants, bars, cafes, and grocery stands with a focus on high quality Norwegian ingredients. Try some of Norway’s famous seafood at Vulkanfisk Seafoodbar and pick up some Norwegian brown cheese at Gutta På Haugen to snack on later.

Oslo has its share of party spots, but I was looking for a more quiet way to wrap up the night. Oslo Velo is a popular hangout with Grünerløkka’s locals. It’s a café, bar, and bicycle repair shop all in one. It’s the perfect place to grab a coffee or beer with friends and wind down.

Cinnamon rolls at Godt Brod in grunerlokka oslo — Godt Brød even has *Kannelboller* with custard!

The next morning, while searching for breakfast spots, I learned that Oslo’s best bakery was right around the corner. Godt Brød is a Grünerløkka institution. Its name means “Good Bread” in Norwegian and its famous for serving just that. Every day their magical elves (I assume) make fresh bread and pastries with all organic ingredients. They also have a nice build your own salad bar, which is great if you’re the kind of psychopath that eats a salad in a bakery. For once in my life I was motivated to get up early and check it out. I, of course, ordered their version of a Kanelboller (How do I know which one is best if I don’t try them all?) and it might just be the current frontrunner!

Though I was in no hurry to leave, I managed to venture out of the neighborhood for part of the day to check out some of the city’s other sites. Oslo is very compact and easy to get around so I took the scenic route home (Calling it home makes me seem like I’m meant to be here right??). I made my way back slowly along the Akerselva River. An 8km walkway winds along the river with parks, art, and even a waterfall in the middle of the city!

couple walking along Akerselva River in Oslo — The Akerselva Riverwalk is a great escape from the city

The river walk has more than natural attractions. There is also a great cluster of bars around the Ingens Gate bridge. Ingensteds is a bar turned club/music venue as the night goes on. Blå is a music venue overlooking the river, that hosts an art market on Sunday afternoons.

For accommodation, Grünerløkka is lacking a little when it comes to affordable hotels. But there is a wide range of Airbnb’s in the area. What better way to learn how to be a Norwegian hipster than by staying in one of their places for a bit? I was able to find the perfect hipster pad, record player and all, within walking distance of all the action.

With my suitcases a little heavier from the shopping and me a little heavier from the frantic cinnamon bun eating, it was time to leave. I only scratched the surface of this buzzing corner of Oslo and I’m already planning my next trip back.